Before even choosing my favorite list of brands who stood out during the Fashion Week Spring Ready-to-Wear 2019, I have decided to look through all the brands that have released their collections for this season. Perhaps, it wasn’t the best idea since the number of brands posted on Vogue magazine reached 480 with minimum 20 looks per brand (let’s not forget that for huge brands such as Dolce & Gabbana the minimum is 100 and not 20). I guess it pretty much justifies my late response to the Fashion Week which ended on October 6th. When we hear about the Fashion Week, we immediately imagine top brands who always present their collections and in most of the cases, we forget about those brands who either don’t have a runway show but have a collection or have and don’t get the attention from the media as Balenciaga, Chanel, Dior, Valentino get, for instance.
So, the question arises, did I look through all 480 brands with their Spring Summer Ready-to-Wear 2019 collections? Sure, I did not! Maybe I try to stay tuned to all the fashion news but more than 10,000 images are too much to handle for one season. I mean, if I wholeheartedly looked through all of them I would miss the upcoming Haute Couture 2019 collection in winter. And Haute Couture is something you don’t want to miss, do you? Shortly, I have picked only 7 brands that I liked the most from nearly 100 of collections I was mentally able to “digest” and here are they, in all their glory…or maybe in half of their glory.
Let’s start with the best ones or, in other words, with the ones I had a hard time picking separate looks from. After Maria Grazia Chiuri left Valentino, I felt as if the brand caught a second wind, a fresh one. Pleats and forms are what excites me the most in fashion. And finding the right fabric for the right form is heaven for the aesthetic mind. I bet it would be hard to wear such a short dress (1) in Armenia with its strong winds, but let’s face it, the prints and forms look absolutely stunning on the model. A side note, the first look should be used in the next re-re-re-make of the Alice in Wonderland! Pleats are a separate topic – pleats like confidence: you either walk masterfully or you don’t wear pleats.
When designers experiment with cultures it sometimes gives a very interesting picture, as for example did Simone Rocha with the Asian culture. “I have people in the studio from China, Taiwan, and Japan,” Simone Rocha said to Vogue. “I was thinking about portraits of concubines from the Tang dynasty in the 16th century. I found a copy of one in a market in Hong Kong. We started playing with imitating the imitations.” Mandarin collars, Tang Dynasty paintings, and gloomy atmosphere. The possible funeral implication emanates from the runaway, prevailing of black and the headwear covering models’ faces. The designer explains it by the fact that she “was also thinking about Qingming, the Chinese equivalent of the Day of the Dead, when everyone goes up the mountain in Hong Kong to clean their family’s gravestones.” She also participated while visiting her grandparents.
Not sure what Watanabe was thinking while creating this collecting but it looks odd and so relatable. If you change denim with organza or sequins fabric you will get an evening gown or a very elegant dress. The first look reminds me of Dior’s New Look and Watanabe chooses denim, and boom, you get something not sure where to wear but it still looks cool. The third dress reflects uncertainty with which you can’t decide between a skirt or overalls because the weather changes faster than your mood.
These looks play on colors, cuts, and leather which I did not include in this trio since I couldn’t find the perfect one. Sure it doesn’t remind me of the authentic McQueen who for me will always be the risky, creepy and most importantly confident creator (Fall 2006). But it definitely does have an audacious mood and is wearable (rock concert, party or in-n-out?). Aside from the clothes, let’s take a moment and appreciate the accessories: the more is more.
It was the love from the first sight. I even remember the day when I saw this red lip dress and thought: ” Daamn, it gets better with every show Valli throws.” The dress even beckons as in the Shopaholic movie: imagine as if these lips are talking to you. Moreover, if it wasn’t for this single look I am afraid Valli wouldn’t join the list of my favorites. The pearl of the collection, in other words.
This one reminds me of the days when I need to prepare for my morning classes while having nothing to wear but at some point, you find something from different operas and just wear it however you can. Not a bum style yet but your mother thinks that it already is. I would love to have these three looks or even more from the Sacai collection because it has the colors of military attire but assembled in a stylish and dynamic manner. Moreover, it has the colors of spring and it definitely reminds me of this season, so Sacai did a great job.
Now let’s get back to the 21st century and take a look at the sporty, comfy and literally ready-to-wear collection of Virgil Abloh who got the attention of the media after being appointed Louis Vuitton’s artistic director but, fortunately, didn’t leave his brand Off-White and continued to release collections. There are some odd looks that I don’t imagine to be practical on the streets or even during meetings or events. I mean, not every apparel with the Nike symbol is made for sport. Who’s gonna run in a gown? Serena Williams? But still, this move of juxtaposing and mixing in one single image two, at first, opposite styles may turn out into a good chemistry. Not like Romeo and Juliet but somewhere in between Blaire and Chuck or Allie and Noah.